Thursday, August 27, 2009

Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil, and Bottarga Breadcrumbs

Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil, 

and Bottarga Breadcrumbs 

Serves: 6  Author: John Beeler 

This is the dish to make in the middle of summer when heirloom tomatoes are 

everywhere. I can think of few more satisfying things to eat. Bottarga, considered the 

cavair of Sicily, is a delicacy made by drying tuna or mullet roe in the sun until it 

forms a dense, rust-colored block. Here, it's shaved and tossed into the pasta, 

adding a deep oceany essence and salty-savory contrast to the sweet summer 

tomatoes. 

NOTE: I like to cook the tomatoes in the sauce for at least a few minutes. The pasta 

gets nicely glazed and coated with the sauce and the flavors have a chance to meld. 

Also, I have made this dish many times without the bottarga -- it's delicious both 

ways. 

Step 1 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 

Put a large pot of heavily salted water on to boil 

over high heat. 

Step 2 

1 1/2 cups Fresh Breadcrumbs 

2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

Toss the breadcrumbs with 2 tbsp olive oil, 

spread them on a baking sheet, and toast 8-10 

minutes, stirring once or twice, until golden 

brown. 

Step 3 

1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

1/2 sprig Fresh Rosemary 

2 Chiles De Arbo, Crumbled with your hands 

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 2 

minutes. Pour in the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil, 

and add the rosemary and crumbled chiles. Let 

them sizzle a minute or two. 

Step 4 

2 cups Red Onion, sliced 

1 tablespoon Fresh Thyme, just the leaves 

Add the sliced onion and thyme. Season with 1 

teaspoon salt and pepper. Turn the heat down 

to medium and cook 3 minutes, stirring often. 

Step 5 

1/4 cup Garlic, sliced Stir in the garlic and cook for another 3-4 

minutes until the onion is translucent and 

starting to color slightly.

Step 6 

1 pound Spaghetti Pasta Drop the pasta in the boiling water. 

Step 7 

2 pounds Heirloom Tomato, very ripe, chopped Turn the heat under the onions back up to high, 

and add the tomatoes to the pan with 1 tsp salt 

and freshly ground black pepper. Stir the 

tomatoes often, and cook about 8 minutes until 

their juices are released and start to reduce. 

Step 8 

  Kosher Salt 

4 tablespoons Unsalted Butter 

When the pasta is al dente, drain it and add to 

the tomatoes. Toss well, add the butter and 

cook 3-4 minutes to reduce the juices so they 

coat the noodles well. Season with 1/2 

teaspoon salt and taste. 

Step 9 

1/4 cup bottarga di tonno , 1/4 to 1/2 cup - shaved 

or thinly sliced 

1/4 cup Fresh Parsley, Flat-leaf, sliced 

1/2 cup Fresh Basil, Sliced 

Add the basil, parsley, and half the bottarga to 

the pan and toss to combine. 

Step 10 

Shower the breadcrumb over the pasta and 

scatter the remaining bottarga shavings on top. 

Step 11

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Shopping List FATHER MOTHER SISTER BROTHER

Tue: Adobo?
Wed: Parents
Thu: Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basical, and Bottarga Breadcrumbs (p. 191)
Fri: Balsamic Steak Salad
Sat: Pappardelle with Zucchini, Sultanas and Pine Nuts

MARKET
2lbs very ripe heirloom tomatoes
garlic
red onion
1 1/2lbs zucchini  + 2 medium zuc.
cherry/grape tomatos
1 red pepper

GOOSE
chile de arbol
2 5oz top sirloins

TJ/OM
Pine nuts
Egg pappardelle
marsala
red wine vinegar
peppercorns
butter
2 bosc pears


Oven Ratatouille

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/oven-ratatouille

In this (my favorite) version, everything gets roasted at a high temperature and then combined in the end. The flavors become very deep.

Yield:
4 - 6 Servings

Ingredients

  • 3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 large globe eggplant (about 1 pound), cut into ¾-inch cubes (peeling unnecessary if the skin is tight and smooth)
  • 2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cored
  • 6 medium-sized garlic cloves, unpeeled
  • 2 large bell peppers (red, yellow, or orange)
  • 2 cups coarsely chopped onion
  • 1 medium zucchini (7 to 8 inches long), cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 1½ teaspoons dried basil
  • 1 teaspoon dried marjoram or oregano
  • ½ teaspoon each crumbled dried thyme and rosemary
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

OPTIONAL TOPPINGS:

  • Small amounts of fresh herbs (basil, marjoram or oregano, rosemary, thyme, and/or parsley)
  • Pitted chopped olives

Directions

1). Arrange an oven rack in the topmost position, and another in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line 1 small and 2 large baking trays with foil, and coast the foil generously with the olive oil.

2). Place the eggplant on one of the large trays, and toss to coat with oil. Then push it to one side, keeping it in a single layer. Arrange the tomatoes on the other half of the tray, rolling them around so they get coated with oil. Wrap the garlic cloves (still in their skins) and a half teaspoon of water tightly in a piece of foil, and place this on the corner of the same tray.

3). Place the whole bell peppers on the small tray.

4). Spread the onions and the zucchini pieces on opposite ends of the remaining large tray, and toss to coat with the oil.

5). Place the eggplant tray on the middle shelf of the oven, and put the small sheet with the peppers on the upper rack. After 10 minutes, use tongs to turn everything over. Repeat this turning process after another 10 minutes or so. Gently squeeze the garlic to see if it is soft. If it is, remove it from the oven; if not, continue roasting.

6). Place the onion-zucchini tray on the middle shelf next to the one with the eggplant, and continue roasting all for another 10 minutes. Turn the peppers and tomatoes one more time, and toss the eggplant, onions, and zucchini to help them brown evenly. Sprinkle the eggplant, onions, and zucchini evenly with the dried herbs. Once again, squeeze the garlic to see if it is soft. If so, remove it from the oven; if not, continue roasting. Roast a final 10 minutes, or until the vegetables become deep golden brown and very tender.

7). Transfer the eggplant, onion, and zucchini to a large bowl. Let the peppers, tomatoes, and garlic sit for a few minutes, or until comfortable to handle. Peel the peppers, then chop the tomatoes and peeled peppers roughly into 1-inch pieces and add to the eggplant mixture. Slip the roasted garlic clovers from their skins, mash with a fork, and add to the eggplant mixture.

8). Toss until well combined. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled – plain or topped with a sprinkling of freshly chopped herbs and/or olives.

Notes

NOTES: Dried herbs added during the roasting process infuse the vegetables with even deeper flavor. Optional fresh herbs sprinkled on at serving time add another savory layer.

Serve plain or on a bed of polenta and topped with a grilled "veggie" sausage and/or a freshly poached egg.

Risotto with Zucchino Striato D’Italia

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/risotto-with-zucchino-striato-drsquoitalia

The zucchini in the garden beckons. When cooked in a risotto, the zucchini breaks down, becoming sweet and creamy, and merging with the rice.

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

  • ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • ½ onion, finely diced
  • 2 striato d'Italia or other medium zucchini, diced
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 cups Arborio rice
  • 6 cups vegetable broth or water, brought to a simmer
  • 8 fresh basil leaves, cut into thin slivers
  • Sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • ½ cup freshly grated Grana Padano cheese

Directions

Heat the ¼ cup olive oil in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and sauté slowly until soft. Add the zucchini and garlic, and briefly sauté over moderate heat, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the rice is translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the hot broth to the rice mixture one ladleful at a time, stirring frequently. The rice should cook very slowly over low heat. Wait until the liquid is absorbed before adding the next ladleful of broth. Midway during cooking, add the basil and salt and pepper to taste.

When the risotto is al dente, Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the cheese. Turn off the heat and stir briefly to combine. Serve immediately.


Pappardelle with Zucchini, Sultanas and Pine Nuts

If there seems to be a rather small amount of pasta specified for four people here, it's not because I'm exercising portion control, but because egg pappardelle swell voluptuously when cooked and a modest tangle of these dried yellow, wide-cut ribbons will plump up to take, appetite-satisfyingly, the whole panful of slow-cooked, sweet and mushy zucchini sauce.

Yield: Serves 6 as a starter; 4 as a main course.

Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1½ pounds zucchini (4 medium)
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • salt and pepper
  • 2–3 tablespoons Marsala
  • scant ¼ cup sultanas (golden raisins)
  • 2 tablespoons pine nuts
  • 8 ounces egg pappardelle
  • 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
  • small bunch fresh parsley, chopped

Directions

Heat the butter and oil in a heavy-based saucepan, and cut the zucchini into very fine rounds before adding them to the pan. Mince in the garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook over a low to medium heat for about 45 minutes, stirring every now and again. When they are ready the zucchini will have sweated down—if you'll forgive the expression—but still retain some color and shape. In other words, you're looking for a certain mushiness without going so far as out-and-out pulp. Not that it matters: if you forget these are on the stove and let them cook until they reach the state of pure, undifferentiated sauce, you will still have something pretty heavenly on your hands. Besides, in Sicily, you will find that different cooks have different preferences: as ever, there is no one way to cook the same thing.

While all this is going on, warm the Marsala, pour it over the sultanas and leave them to plump up for about 15 minutes, or longer if you want. Once the zucchini are cooked, stir the sultanas and their amber juices into them. Taste for seasoning. Toast the pine nuts by cooking them in a dry frying pan until they turn a golden brown, and remove to a cold plate.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain and tip into a warmed bowl. Add the zucchini mixture and fold and toss to combine. Sprinkle over the pine nuts, Parmesan and most of the chopped parsley and toss everything gently together again. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and take to the table.

Pasta with Carrots, Risotto Style

http://www.veggienumnums.com/2009/07/pasta-with-carrots-risotto-style.html

Pasta with Carrots, Risotto Style

I've never made pasta this way before--by cooking it in a measured amount of liquid until the pasta absorbs enough to become tender, so I wasn't sure if it would turn out. I was worried that the pasta might be gummy. It wasn't; it was cooked perfectly and so flavorful because of the broth. You want to use a very good vegetable broth for this--homemade if possible, or a high quality organic broth from the store.

Pasta with Carrots, Risotto Style
**adapted from Saveur Magazine

8 cups of vegetable broth/stock
5 tablespoons of butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 lb. mini-penne pasta
8 medium carrots, peeled and diced
1/2 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
salt and pepper
parsley to garnish

Bring stock to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to low to keep stock hot.

Melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a medium heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add uncooked pasta and carrots and cook, stirring often, until pasta is lightly toasted, about 5 minutes.

Add 1 cup of the hot stock at a time to the pasta, stirring constantly; wait until almost all the stock has been absorbed before adding more. Continue cooking and adding stock (you may have some stock left over) until pasta is tender but firm to the bite, 10-15 minutes.

Remove pot from heat and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and the cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warm serving dish and garnish with parsley. Serve with extra cheese.

This pasta is one of Dave's favorite non-dessert recipes. I am thinking about making it again but using a variety of different veggies--summer squash would be a lovely addition. 

Friday, August 21, 2009

Well-Done Hamburgers on a Gas Grill

Cook's Illustrated

Well-Done Hamburgers on a Gas Grill

Serves 4.   Published July 1, 2006.

Adding a panade (a paste of bread and milk paste) to the ground beef creates burgers that are juicy and tender even when well-done. For a burger that cooks up flat, press the center of each patty down with your fingertips before grilling. Serve the burgers on your favorite buns or rolls. For cheeseburgers, follow the optional instructions below.

Ingredients

1 large slice high-quality white sandwich bread , crust removed and discarded, bread chopped into 1/4-inch pieces (about 1/2 cup)
2 tablespoons whole milk
3/4 teaspoon table salt
3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 medium clove garlic , minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
2 teaspoons steak sauce , such as A-1
1 1/2 pounds 80 percent lean ground chuck
Vegetable oil for cooking grate
6 ounces cheese , sliced, (optional)
4 hamburger buns or rolls

Instructions

  1. 1. Turn all burners to high, close lid, and heat until very hot, about 15 minutes. Use grill brush to scrape cooking grate clean. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in vegetable oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Leave primary burner on high, turn other burner(s) to low.

  2. 2. Meanwhile, mash bread and milk in large bowl with fork until homogeneous (you should have about 1/4 cup). Stir in salt, pepper, garlic, and steak sauce.

  3. 3. Break up beef into small pieces over bread mixture. Using fork or hands, lightly mix together until mixture forms cohesive mass. Divide meat into 4 equal portions. Gently toss one portion of meat back and forth between hands to form loose ball. Gently flatten into 3/4-inch-thick patty that measures about 4 1/2 inches in diameter. Press center of patty down with fingertips until it is about 1/2 inch thick, creating a slight depression in each patty. Repeat with remaining portions of meat.

  4. 5. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in vegetable oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Grill burgers on hot side of grill, covered, until well seared on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Using wide metal spatula, flip burgers and continue grilling, about 3 minutes for medium-well or 4 minutes for well-done. Distribute equal portions of cheese (if using) on burgers about 2 minutes before they reach desired doneness, covering burgers with disposable aluminum pan to melt cheese. While burgers grill, toast buns on cooler side of grill, rotating buns as necessary to toast evenly. Serve burgers on toasted buns.

Recipe Testing

A Half-Ounce of Prevention Our quest for a juicy well-done burger ended when we hit upon a surprisingly effective addition--a bread-and-milk paste (or panade).

A panade prevented the burger on the left from becoming dense and dried out...

...like the one on the right.

America's Test Kitchen