CARBONNADE A LA FLAMANDE (BELGIAN BEEF, BEER, AND ONION STEW)

Serves 6.   Published November 1, 2004. From Cook's Illustrated.

Top blade steaks (also called blade or flatiron steaks) are our first choice, but any boneless roast from the chuck will work. If you end up using a chuck roast, look for the chuck eye roast, an especially flavorful cut that can easily be trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces. Buttered egg noodles or mashed potatoes make excellent accompaniments to carbonnade. The traditional copper-colored Belgian ale works best in this stew. If you can't find one, choose another dark or amber-colored ale of your liking.

INGREDIENTS

3 1/2	pounds blade steaks , 1-inch-thick, trimmed of gristle and fat and cut into 1-inch pieces (see illustrations below)
	Table salt and ground black pepper
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
2	pounds yellow onions (about 3 medium), halved and sliced about 1/4-inch-thick (about 8 cups)
1	tablespoon tomato paste
2	medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
3	tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/4	cup low-sodium chicken broth
3/4	cup low-sodium beef broth
1 1/2	cups beer (12-ounce bottle or can)
4	sprigs fresh thyme leaves, tied with kitchen twine
2	bay leaves
1	tablespoon cider vinegar

INSTRUCTIONS

1. 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 300 degrees. Dry beef thoroughly with paper towels, then season generously with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat until beginning to smoke; add about one-third of beef to pot. Cook without moving pieces until well browned, 2 to 3 minutes; using tongs, turn each piece and continue cooking until second side is well browned, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer browned beef to medium bowl. Repeat with additional 2 teaspoons oil and half of remaining beef. (If drippings in bottom of pot are very dark, add about 1/2 cup of above-listed chicken or beef broth and scrape pan bottom with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; pour liquid into bowl with browned beef, then proceed.) Repeat once more with 2 teaspoons oil and remaining beef.

2. 2. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to now-empty Dutch oven; reduce heat to medium-low. Add onions, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and tomato paste; cook, scraping bottom of pot with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits, until onions have released some moisture, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are lightly browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add flour and stir until onions are evenly coated and flour is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in broths, scraping pan bottom to loosen browned bits; stir in beer, thyme, bay, vinegar, browned beef with any accumulated juices, and salt and pepper to taste. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to full simmer, stirring occasionally; cover partially, then place pot in oven. Cook until fork inserted into beef meets little resistance, about 2 hours.

3. 3. Discard thyme and bay. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper to taste and serve. (Can be cooled and refrigerated in airtight container for up to 4 days; reheat over medium-low heat.)

STEP-BY-STEP

Trimming Blade Steaks

Halve each steak lengthwise, leaving gristle on one half.

Cut away gristle from half to which it is still attached.

Cut trimmed meat crosswise into 1-inch pieces.

America's Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook's Country and Cook's Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America's Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.

Best Buttermilk Pancakes

Makes sixteen 4-inch pancakes; Serves 4 to 6.   Published July 1, 2009.   From Cook's Illustrated.

The pancakes can be cooked on an electric griddle. Set the griddle temperature to 350 degrees and cook as directed. The test kitchen prefers a lower-protein all-purpose flour like Gold Medal or Pillsbury. If you use an all-purpose flour with a higher protein content, like King Arthur, you will need to add an extra tablespoon or two of buttermilk.

INGREDIENTS

2	cups unbleached all-purpose flour (10 ounces) (see note)
2	tablespoons sugar
1/2	teaspoon table salt
1	teaspoon baking powder
1/2	teaspoon baking soda
2	cups buttermilk
1/4	cup sour cream
2	large eggs
3	tablespoon unsalted butter , melted and cooled slightly
1 - 2	teaspoons vegetable oil

INSTRUCTIONS

1. 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Spray wire rack set inside baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray; place in oven. Whisk flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda together in medium bowl. In second medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk, sour cream, eggs, and melted butter. Make well in center of dry ingredients and pour in wet ingredients; gently stir until just combined (batter should remain lumpy with few streaks of flour). Do not overmix. Allow batter to sit 10 minutes before cooking.

2. 2. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Using paper towels, carefully wipe out oil, leaving thin film of oil on bottom and sides of pan. Using ¼ cup measure, portion batter into pan in 4 places. Cook until edges are set, first side is golden brown, and bubbles on surface are just beginning to break, 2 to 3 minutes. Using thin, wide spatula, flip pancakes and continue to cook until second side is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Serve pancakes immediately, or transfer to wire rack in preheated oven. Repeat with remaining batter, using remaining oil as necessary.

Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil, and Bottarga Breadcrumbs

Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil, 

and Bottarga Breadcrumbs 

Serves: 6  Author: John Beeler 

This is the dish to make in the middle of summer when heirloom tomatoes are 

everywhere. I can think of few more satisfying things to eat. Bottarga, considered the 

cavair of Sicily, is a delicacy made by drying tuna or mullet roe in the sun until it 

forms a dense, rust-colored block. Here, it's shaved and tossed into the pasta, 

adding a deep oceany essence and salty-savory contrast to the sweet summer 

tomatoes. 

NOTE: I like to cook the tomatoes in the sauce for at least a few minutes. The pasta 

gets nicely glazed and coated with the sauce and the flavors have a chance to meld. 

Also, I have made this dish many times without the bottarga -- it's delicious both 

ways. 

Step 1 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 

Put a large pot of heavily salted water on to boil 

over high heat. 

Step 2 

1 1/2 cups Fresh Breadcrumbs 

2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

Toss the breadcrumbs with 2 tbsp olive oil, 

spread them on a baking sheet, and toast 8-10 

minutes, stirring once or twice, until golden 

brown. 

Step 3 

1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

1/2 sprig Fresh Rosemary 

2 Chiles De Arbo, Crumbled with your hands 

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 2 

minutes. Pour in the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil, 

and add the rosemary and crumbled chiles. Let 

them sizzle a minute or two. 

Step 4 

2 cups Red Onion, sliced 

1 tablespoon Fresh Thyme, just the leaves 

Add the sliced onion and thyme. Season with 1 

teaspoon salt and pepper. Turn the heat down 

to medium and cook 3 minutes, stirring often. 

Step 5 

1/4 cup Garlic, sliced Stir in the garlic and cook for another 3-4 

minutes until the onion is translucent and 

starting to color slightly.

Step 6 

1 pound Spaghetti Pasta Drop the pasta in the boiling water. 

Step 7 

2 pounds Heirloom Tomato, very ripe, chopped Turn the heat under the onions back up to high, 

and add the tomatoes to the pan with 1 tsp salt 

and freshly ground black pepper. Stir the 

tomatoes often, and cook about 8 minutes until 

their juices are released and start to reduce. 

Step 8 

  Kosher Salt 

4 tablespoons Unsalted Butter 

When the pasta is al dente, drain it and add to 

the tomatoes. Toss well, add the butter and 

cook 3-4 minutes to reduce the juices so they 

coat the noodles well. Season with 1/2 

teaspoon salt and taste. 

Step 9 

1/4 cup bottarga di tonno , 1/4 to 1/2 cup - shaved 

or thinly sliced 

1/4 cup Fresh Parsley, Flat-leaf, sliced 

1/2 cup Fresh Basil, Sliced 

Add the basil, parsley, and half the bottarga to 

the pan and toss to combine. 

Step 10 

Shower the breadcrumb over the pasta and 

scatter the remaining bottarga shavings on top. 

Step 11

Shopping List FATHER MOTHER SISTER BROTHER

Tue: Adobo?

Wed: Parents

Thu: Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basical, and Bottarga Breadcrumbs (p. 191)

Fri: Balsamic Steak Salad

Sat: Pappardelle with Zucchini, Sultanas and Pine Nuts

MARKET

2lbs very ripe heirloom tomatoes

garlic

red onion

1 1/2lbs zucchini  + 2 medium zuc.

cherry/grape tomatos

1 red pepper

GOOSE

chile de arbol

2 5oz top sirloins

TJ/OM

Pine nuts

Egg pappardelle

marsala

red wine vinegar

peppercorns

butter

2 bosc pears

Oven Ratatouille

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/oven-ratatouille

In this (my favorite) version, everything gets roasted at a high temperature and then combined in the end. The flavors become very deep.

Yield:
4 - 6 Servings

Ingredients

• 3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 large globe eggplant (about 1 pound), cut into ¾-inch cubes (peeling unnecessary if the skin is tight and smooth)
• 2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cored
• 6 medium-sized garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 2 large bell peppers (red, yellow, or orange)
• 2 cups coarsely chopped onion
• 1 medium zucchini (7 to 8 inches long), cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1½ teaspoons dried basil
• 1 teaspoon dried marjoram or oregano
• ½ teaspoon each crumbled dried thyme and rosemary
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

OPTIONAL TOPPINGS:

• Small amounts of fresh herbs (basil, marjoram or oregano, rosemary, thyme, and/or parsley)
• Pitted chopped olives

Directions

1). Arrange an oven rack in the topmost position, and another in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line 1 small and 2 large baking trays with foil, and coast the foil generously with the olive oil.

2). Place the eggplant on one of the large trays, and toss to coat with oil. Then push it to one side, keeping it in a single layer. Arrange the tomatoes on the other half of the tray, rolling them around so they get coated with oil. Wrap the garlic cloves (still in their skins) and a half teaspoon of water tightly in a piece of foil, and place this on the corner of the same tray.

3). Place the whole bell peppers on the small tray.

4). Spread the onions and the zucchini pieces on opposite ends of the remaining large tray, and toss to coat with the oil.

5). Place the eggplant tray on the middle shelf of the oven, and put the small sheet with the peppers on the upper rack. After 10 minutes, use tongs to turn everything over. Repeat this turning process after another 10 minutes or so. Gently squeeze the garlic to see if it is soft. If it is, remove it from the oven; if not, continue roasting.

6). Place the onion-zucchini tray on the middle shelf next to the one with the eggplant, and continue roasting all for another 10 minutes. Turn the peppers and tomatoes one more time, and toss the eggplant, onions, and zucchini to help them brown evenly. Sprinkle the eggplant, onions, and zucchini evenly with the dried herbs. Once again, squeeze the garlic to see if it is soft. If so, remove it from the oven; if not, continue roasting. Roast a final 10 minutes, or until the vegetables become deep golden brown and very tender.

7). Transfer the eggplant, onion, and zucchini to a large bowl. Let the peppers, tomatoes, and garlic sit for a few minutes, or until comfortable to handle. Peel the peppers, then chop the tomatoes and peeled peppers roughly into 1-inch pieces and add to the eggplant mixture. Slip the roasted garlic clovers from their skins, mash with a fork, and add to the eggplant mixture.

8). Toss until well combined. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled – plain or topped with a sprinkling of freshly chopped herbs and/or olives.

Notes

NOTES: Dried herbs added during the roasting process infuse the vegetables with even deeper flavor. Optional fresh herbs sprinkled on at serving time add another savory layer.

Serve plain or on a bed of polenta and topped with a grilled "veggie" sausage and/or a freshly poached egg.

Risotto with Zucchino Striato D’Italia

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/risotto-with-zucchino-striato-drsquoitalia

The zucchini in the garden beckons. When cooked in a risotto, the zucchini breaks down, becoming sweet and creamy, and merging with the rice.

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• ½ onion, finely diced
• 2 striato d'Italia or other medium zucchini, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 cups Arborio rice
• 6 cups vegetable broth or water, brought to a simmer
• 8 fresh basil leaves, cut into thin slivers
• Sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• ½ cup freshly grated Grana Padano cheese

Directions

Heat the ¼ cup olive oil in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and sauté slowly until soft. Add the zucchini and garlic, and briefly sauté over moderate heat, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the rice is translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the hot broth to the rice mixture one ladleful at a time, stirring frequently. The rice should cook very slowly over low heat. Wait until the liquid is absorbed before adding the next ladleful of broth. Midway during cooking, add the basil and salt and pepper to taste.

When the risotto is al dente, Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the cheese. Turn off the heat and stir briefly to combine. Serve immediately.

Pappardelle with Zucchini, Sultanas and Pine Nuts

If there seems to be a rather small amount of pasta specified for four people here, it's not because I'm exercising portion control, but because egg pappardelle swell voluptuously when cooked and a modest tangle of these dried yellow, wide-cut ribbons will plump up to take, appetite-satisfyingly, the whole panful of slow-cooked, sweet and mushy zucchini sauce.

Yield: Serves 6 as a starter; 4 as a main course.

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1½ pounds zucchini (4 medium)
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• salt and pepper
• 2–3 tablespoons Marsala
• scant ¼ cup sultanas (golden raisins)
• 2 tablespoons pine nuts
• 8 ounces egg pappardelle
• 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
• small bunch fresh parsley, chopped

Directions

Heat the butter and oil in a heavy-based saucepan, and cut the zucchini into very fine rounds before adding them to the pan. Mince in the garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook over a low to medium heat for about 45 minutes, stirring every now and again. When they are ready the zucchini will have sweated down—if you'll forgive the expression—but still retain some color and shape. In other words, you're looking for a certain mushiness without going so far as out-and-out pulp. Not that it matters: if you forget these are on the stove and let them cook until they reach the state of pure, undifferentiated sauce, you will still have something pretty heavenly on your hands. Besides, in Sicily, you will find that different cooks have different preferences: as ever, there is no one way to cook the same thing.

While all this is going on, warm the Marsala, pour it over the sultanas and leave them to plump up for about 15 minutes, or longer if you want. Once the zucchini are cooked, stir the sultanas and their amber juices into them. Taste for seasoning. Toast the pine nuts by cooking them in a dry frying pan until they turn a golden brown, and remove to a cold plate.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain and tip into a warmed bowl. Add the zucchini mixture and fold and toss to combine. Sprinkle over the pine nuts, Parmesan and most of the chopped parsley and toss everything gently together again. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and take to the table.