WELL-DONE HAMBURGERS ON A GAS GRILL

Serves 4.   Published July 1, 2006.

Adding a panade (a paste of bread and milk paste) to the ground beef creates burgers that are juicy and tender even when well-done. For a burger that cooks up flat, press the center of each patty down with your fingertips before grilling. Serve the burgers on your favorite buns or rolls. For cheeseburgers, follow the optional instructions below.

INGREDIENTS

1	large slice high-quality white sandwich bread , crust removed and discarded, bread chopped into 1/4-inch pieces (about 1/2 cup)
2	tablespoons whole milk
3/4	teaspoon table salt
3/4	teaspoon ground black pepper
1	medium clove garlic , minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
2	teaspoons steak sauce , such as A-1
1 1/2	pounds 80 percent lean ground chuck
	Vegetable oil for cooking grate
6	ounces cheese , sliced, (optional)
4	hamburger buns or rolls

INSTRUCTIONS

1. 1. Turn all burners to high, close lid, and heat until very hot, about 15 minutes. Use grill brush to scrape cooking grate clean. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in vegetable oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Leave primary burner on high, turn other burner(s) to low.

2. 2. Meanwhile, mash bread and milk in large bowl with fork until homogeneous (you should have about 1/4 cup). Stir in salt, pepper, garlic, and steak sauce.

3. 3. Break up beef into small pieces over bread mixture. Using fork or hands, lightly mix together until mixture forms cohesive mass. Divide meat into 4 equal portions. Gently toss one portion of meat back and forth between hands to form loose ball. Gently flatten into 3/4-inch-thick patty that measures about 4 1/2 inches in diameter. Press center of patty down with fingertips until it is about 1/2 inch thick, creating a slight depression in each patty. Repeat with remaining portions of meat.

4. 5. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in vegetable oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Grill burgers on hot side of grill, covered, until well seared on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Using wide metal spatula, flip burgers and continue grilling, about 3 minutes for medium-well or 4 minutes for well-done. Distribute equal portions of cheese (if using) on burgers about 2 minutes before they reach desired doneness, covering burgers with disposable aluminum pan to melt cheese. While burgers grill, toast buns on cooler side of grill, rotating buns as necessary to toast evenly. Serve burgers on toasted buns.

RECIPE TESTING

A Half-Ounce of Prevention Our quest for a juicy well-done burger ended when we hit upon a surprisingly effective addition--a bread-and-milk paste (or panade).

A panade prevented the burger on the left from becoming dense and dried out...

...like the one on the right.

CARBONNADE A LA FLAMANDE (BELGIAN BEEF, BEER, AND ONION STEW)

Serves 6.   Published November 1, 2004. From Cook's Illustrated.

Top blade steaks (also called blade or flatiron steaks) are our first choice, but any boneless roast from the chuck will work. If you end up using a chuck roast, look for the chuck eye roast, an especially flavorful cut that can easily be trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces. Buttered egg noodles or mashed potatoes make excellent accompaniments to carbonnade. The traditional copper-colored Belgian ale works best in this stew. If you can't find one, choose another dark or amber-colored ale of your liking.

INGREDIENTS

3 1/2	pounds blade steaks , 1-inch-thick, trimmed of gristle and fat and cut into 1-inch pieces (see illustrations below)
	Table salt and ground black pepper
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
2	pounds yellow onions (about 3 medium), halved and sliced about 1/4-inch-thick (about 8 cups)
1	tablespoon tomato paste
2	medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
3	tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/4	cup low-sodium chicken broth
3/4	cup low-sodium beef broth
1 1/2	cups beer (12-ounce bottle or can)
4	sprigs fresh thyme leaves, tied with kitchen twine
2	bay leaves
1	tablespoon cider vinegar

INSTRUCTIONS

1. 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 300 degrees. Dry beef thoroughly with paper towels, then season generously with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat until beginning to smoke; add about one-third of beef to pot. Cook without moving pieces until well browned, 2 to 3 minutes; using tongs, turn each piece and continue cooking until second side is well browned, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer browned beef to medium bowl. Repeat with additional 2 teaspoons oil and half of remaining beef. (If drippings in bottom of pot are very dark, add about 1/2 cup of above-listed chicken or beef broth and scrape pan bottom with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; pour liquid into bowl with browned beef, then proceed.) Repeat once more with 2 teaspoons oil and remaining beef.

2. 2. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to now-empty Dutch oven; reduce heat to medium-low. Add onions, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and tomato paste; cook, scraping bottom of pot with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits, until onions have released some moisture, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are lightly browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add flour and stir until onions are evenly coated and flour is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in broths, scraping pan bottom to loosen browned bits; stir in beer, thyme, bay, vinegar, browned beef with any accumulated juices, and salt and pepper to taste. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to full simmer, stirring occasionally; cover partially, then place pot in oven. Cook until fork inserted into beef meets little resistance, about 2 hours.

3. 3. Discard thyme and bay. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper to taste and serve. (Can be cooled and refrigerated in airtight container for up to 4 days; reheat over medium-low heat.)

STEP-BY-STEP

Trimming Blade Steaks

Halve each steak lengthwise, leaving gristle on one half.

Cut away gristle from half to which it is still attached.

Cut trimmed meat crosswise into 1-inch pieces.

America's Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook's Country and Cook's Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America's Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.

Best Buttermilk Pancakes

Makes sixteen 4-inch pancakes; Serves 4 to 6.   Published July 1, 2009.   From Cook's Illustrated.

The pancakes can be cooked on an electric griddle. Set the griddle temperature to 350 degrees and cook as directed. The test kitchen prefers a lower-protein all-purpose flour like Gold Medal or Pillsbury. If you use an all-purpose flour with a higher protein content, like King Arthur, you will need to add an extra tablespoon or two of buttermilk.

INGREDIENTS

2	cups unbleached all-purpose flour (10 ounces) (see note)
2	tablespoons sugar
1/2	teaspoon table salt
1	teaspoon baking powder
1/2	teaspoon baking soda
2	cups buttermilk
1/4	cup sour cream
2	large eggs
3	tablespoon unsalted butter , melted and cooled slightly
1 - 2	teaspoons vegetable oil

INSTRUCTIONS

1. 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Spray wire rack set inside baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray; place in oven. Whisk flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda together in medium bowl. In second medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk, sour cream, eggs, and melted butter. Make well in center of dry ingredients and pour in wet ingredients; gently stir until just combined (batter should remain lumpy with few streaks of flour). Do not overmix. Allow batter to sit 10 minutes before cooking.

2. 2. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Using paper towels, carefully wipe out oil, leaving thin film of oil on bottom and sides of pan. Using ¼ cup measure, portion batter into pan in 4 places. Cook until edges are set, first side is golden brown, and bubbles on surface are just beginning to break, 2 to 3 minutes. Using thin, wide spatula, flip pancakes and continue to cook until second side is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Serve pancakes immediately, or transfer to wire rack in preheated oven. Repeat with remaining batter, using remaining oil as necessary.

Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil, and Bottarga Breadcrumbs

Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil, 

and Bottarga Breadcrumbs 

Serves: 6  Author: John Beeler 

This is the dish to make in the middle of summer when heirloom tomatoes are 

everywhere. I can think of few more satisfying things to eat. Bottarga, considered the 

cavair of Sicily, is a delicacy made by drying tuna or mullet roe in the sun until it 

forms a dense, rust-colored block. Here, it's shaved and tossed into the pasta, 

adding a deep oceany essence and salty-savory contrast to the sweet summer 

tomatoes. 

NOTE: I like to cook the tomatoes in the sauce for at least a few minutes. The pasta 

gets nicely glazed and coated with the sauce and the flavors have a chance to meld. 

Also, I have made this dish many times without the bottarga -- it's delicious both 

ways. 

Step 1 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 

Put a large pot of heavily salted water on to boil 

over high heat. 

Step 2 

1 1/2 cups Fresh Breadcrumbs 

2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

Toss the breadcrumbs with 2 tbsp olive oil, 

spread them on a baking sheet, and toast 8-10 

minutes, stirring once or twice, until golden 

brown. 

Step 3 

1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

1/2 sprig Fresh Rosemary 

2 Chiles De Arbo, Crumbled with your hands 

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 2 

minutes. Pour in the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil, 

and add the rosemary and crumbled chiles. Let 

them sizzle a minute or two. 

Step 4 

2 cups Red Onion, sliced 

1 tablespoon Fresh Thyme, just the leaves 

Add the sliced onion and thyme. Season with 1 

teaspoon salt and pepper. Turn the heat down 

to medium and cook 3 minutes, stirring often. 

Step 5 

1/4 cup Garlic, sliced Stir in the garlic and cook for another 3-4 

minutes until the onion is translucent and 

starting to color slightly.

Step 6 

1 pound Spaghetti Pasta Drop the pasta in the boiling water. 

Step 7 

2 pounds Heirloom Tomato, very ripe, chopped Turn the heat under the onions back up to high, 

and add the tomatoes to the pan with 1 tsp salt 

and freshly ground black pepper. Stir the 

tomatoes often, and cook about 8 minutes until 

their juices are released and start to reduce. 

Step 8 

  Kosher Salt 

4 tablespoons Unsalted Butter 

When the pasta is al dente, drain it and add to 

the tomatoes. Toss well, add the butter and 

cook 3-4 minutes to reduce the juices so they 

coat the noodles well. Season with 1/2 

teaspoon salt and taste. 

Step 9 

1/4 cup bottarga di tonno , 1/4 to 1/2 cup - shaved 

or thinly sliced 

1/4 cup Fresh Parsley, Flat-leaf, sliced 

1/2 cup Fresh Basil, Sliced 

Add the basil, parsley, and half the bottarga to 

the pan and toss to combine. 

Step 10 

Shower the breadcrumb over the pasta and 

scatter the remaining bottarga shavings on top. 

Step 11

Shopping List FATHER MOTHER SISTER BROTHER

Tue: Adobo?

Wed: Parents

Thu: Spaghetti with Heirloom Tomatoes, Basical, and Bottarga Breadcrumbs (p. 191)

Fri: Balsamic Steak Salad

Sat: Pappardelle with Zucchini, Sultanas and Pine Nuts

MARKET

2lbs very ripe heirloom tomatoes

garlic

red onion

1 1/2lbs zucchini  + 2 medium zuc.

cherry/grape tomatos

1 red pepper

GOOSE

chile de arbol

2 5oz top sirloins

TJ/OM

Pine nuts

Egg pappardelle

marsala

red wine vinegar

peppercorns

butter

2 bosc pears

Oven Ratatouille

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/oven-ratatouille

In this (my favorite) version, everything gets roasted at a high temperature and then combined in the end. The flavors become very deep.

Yield:
4 - 6 Servings

Ingredients

• 3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 large globe eggplant (about 1 pound), cut into ¾-inch cubes (peeling unnecessary if the skin is tight and smooth)
• 2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cored
• 6 medium-sized garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 2 large bell peppers (red, yellow, or orange)
• 2 cups coarsely chopped onion
• 1 medium zucchini (7 to 8 inches long), cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1½ teaspoons dried basil
• 1 teaspoon dried marjoram or oregano
• ½ teaspoon each crumbled dried thyme and rosemary
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

OPTIONAL TOPPINGS:

• Small amounts of fresh herbs (basil, marjoram or oregano, rosemary, thyme, and/or parsley)
• Pitted chopped olives

Directions

1). Arrange an oven rack in the topmost position, and another in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line 1 small and 2 large baking trays with foil, and coast the foil generously with the olive oil.

2). Place the eggplant on one of the large trays, and toss to coat with oil. Then push it to one side, keeping it in a single layer. Arrange the tomatoes on the other half of the tray, rolling them around so they get coated with oil. Wrap the garlic cloves (still in their skins) and a half teaspoon of water tightly in a piece of foil, and place this on the corner of the same tray.

3). Place the whole bell peppers on the small tray.

4). Spread the onions and the zucchini pieces on opposite ends of the remaining large tray, and toss to coat with the oil.

5). Place the eggplant tray on the middle shelf of the oven, and put the small sheet with the peppers on the upper rack. After 10 minutes, use tongs to turn everything over. Repeat this turning process after another 10 minutes or so. Gently squeeze the garlic to see if it is soft. If it is, remove it from the oven; if not, continue roasting.

6). Place the onion-zucchini tray on the middle shelf next to the one with the eggplant, and continue roasting all for another 10 minutes. Turn the peppers and tomatoes one more time, and toss the eggplant, onions, and zucchini to help them brown evenly. Sprinkle the eggplant, onions, and zucchini evenly with the dried herbs. Once again, squeeze the garlic to see if it is soft. If so, remove it from the oven; if not, continue roasting. Roast a final 10 minutes, or until the vegetables become deep golden brown and very tender.

7). Transfer the eggplant, onion, and zucchini to a large bowl. Let the peppers, tomatoes, and garlic sit for a few minutes, or until comfortable to handle. Peel the peppers, then chop the tomatoes and peeled peppers roughly into 1-inch pieces and add to the eggplant mixture. Slip the roasted garlic clovers from their skins, mash with a fork, and add to the eggplant mixture.

8). Toss until well combined. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled – plain or topped with a sprinkling of freshly chopped herbs and/or olives.

Notes

NOTES: Dried herbs added during the roasting process infuse the vegetables with even deeper flavor. Optional fresh herbs sprinkled on at serving time add another savory layer.

Serve plain or on a bed of polenta and topped with a grilled "veggie" sausage and/or a freshly poached egg.

Risotto with Zucchino Striato D’Italia

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/risotto-with-zucchino-striato-drsquoitalia

The zucchini in the garden beckons. When cooked in a risotto, the zucchini breaks down, becoming sweet and creamy, and merging with the rice.

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• ½ onion, finely diced
• 2 striato d'Italia or other medium zucchini, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 cups Arborio rice
• 6 cups vegetable broth or water, brought to a simmer
• 8 fresh basil leaves, cut into thin slivers
• Sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• ½ cup freshly grated Grana Padano cheese

Directions

Heat the ¼ cup olive oil in a heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and sauté slowly until soft. Add the zucchini and garlic, and briefly sauté over moderate heat, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the rice is translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the hot broth to the rice mixture one ladleful at a time, stirring frequently. The rice should cook very slowly over low heat. Wait until the liquid is absorbed before adding the next ladleful of broth. Midway during cooking, add the basil and salt and pepper to taste.

When the risotto is al dente, Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the cheese. Turn off the heat and stir briefly to combine. Serve immediately.

Pappardelle with Zucchini, Sultanas and Pine Nuts

If there seems to be a rather small amount of pasta specified for four people here, it's not because I'm exercising portion control, but because egg pappardelle swell voluptuously when cooked and a modest tangle of these dried yellow, wide-cut ribbons will plump up to take, appetite-satisfyingly, the whole panful of slow-cooked, sweet and mushy zucchini sauce.

Yield: Serves 6 as a starter; 4 as a main course.

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1½ pounds zucchini (4 medium)
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• salt and pepper
• 2–3 tablespoons Marsala
• scant ¼ cup sultanas (golden raisins)
• 2 tablespoons pine nuts
• 8 ounces egg pappardelle
• 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
• small bunch fresh parsley, chopped

Directions

Heat the butter and oil in a heavy-based saucepan, and cut the zucchini into very fine rounds before adding them to the pan. Mince in the garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook over a low to medium heat for about 45 minutes, stirring every now and again. When they are ready the zucchini will have sweated down—if you'll forgive the expression—but still retain some color and shape. In other words, you're looking for a certain mushiness without going so far as out-and-out pulp. Not that it matters: if you forget these are on the stove and let them cook until they reach the state of pure, undifferentiated sauce, you will still have something pretty heavenly on your hands. Besides, in Sicily, you will find that different cooks have different preferences: as ever, there is no one way to cook the same thing.

While all this is going on, warm the Marsala, pour it over the sultanas and leave them to plump up for about 15 minutes, or longer if you want. Once the zucchini are cooked, stir the sultanas and their amber juices into them. Taste for seasoning. Toast the pine nuts by cooking them in a dry frying pan until they turn a golden brown, and remove to a cold plate.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain and tip into a warmed bowl. Add the zucchini mixture and fold and toss to combine. Sprinkle over the pine nuts, Parmesan and most of the chopped parsley and toss everything gently together again. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and take to the table.

Pasta with Carrots, Risotto Style

http://www.veggienumnums.com/2009/07/pasta-with-carrots-risotto-style.html

Pasta with Carrots, Risotto Style

I've never made pasta this way before--by cooking it in a measured amount of liquid until the pasta absorbs enough to become tender, so I wasn't sure if it would turn out. I was worried that the pasta might be gummy. It wasn't; it was cooked perfectly and so flavorful because of the broth. You want to use a very good vegetable broth for this--homemade if possible, or a high quality organic broth from the store.

Pasta with Carrots, Risotto Style
**adapted from Saveur Magazine

8 cups of vegetable broth/stock
5 tablespoons of butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 lb. mini-penne pasta
8 medium carrots, peeled and diced
1/2 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
salt and pepper
parsley to garnish

Bring stock to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to low to keep stock hot.

Melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a medium heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add uncooked pasta and carrots and cook, stirring often, until pasta is lightly toasted, about 5 minutes.

Add 1 cup of the hot stock at a time to the pasta, stirring constantly; wait until almost all the stock has been absorbed before adding more. Continue cooking and adding stock (you may have some stock left over) until pasta is tender but firm to the bite, 10-15 minutes.

Remove pot from heat and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and the cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warm serving dish and garnish with parsley. Serve with extra cheese.

This pasta is one of Dave's favorite non-dessert recipes. I am thinking about making it again but using a variety of different veggies--summer squash would be a lovely addition. 

Well-Done Hamburgers on a Gas Grill

Serves 4.   Published July 1, 2006.

Adding a panade (a paste of bread and milk paste) to the ground beef creates burgers that are juicy and tender even when well-done. For a burger that cooks up flat, press the center of each patty down with your fingertips before grilling. Serve the burgers on your favorite buns or rolls. For cheeseburgers, follow the optional instructions below.

Ingredients

1	large slice high-quality white sandwich bread , crust removed and discarded, bread chopped into 1/4-inch pieces (about 1/2 cup)
2	tablespoons whole milk
3/4	teaspoon table salt
3/4	teaspoon ground black pepper
1	medium clove garlic , minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
2	teaspoons steak sauce , such as A-1
1 1/2	pounds 80 percent lean ground chuck
	Vegetable oil for cooking grate
6	ounces cheese , sliced, (optional)
4	hamburger buns or rolls

Instructions

1. 1. Turn all burners to high, close lid, and heat until very hot, about 15 minutes. Use grill brush to scrape cooking grate clean. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in vegetable oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Leave primary burner on high, turn other burner(s) to low.

2. 2. Meanwhile, mash bread and milk in large bowl with fork until homogeneous (you should have about 1/4 cup). Stir in salt, pepper, garlic, and steak sauce.

3. 3. Break up beef into small pieces over bread mixture. Using fork or hands, lightly mix together until mixture forms cohesive mass. Divide meat into 4 equal portions. Gently toss one portion of meat back and forth between hands to form loose ball. Gently flatten into 3/4-inch-thick patty that measures about 4 1/2 inches in diameter. Press center of patty down with fingertips until it is about 1/2 inch thick, creating a slight depression in each patty. Repeat with remaining portions of meat.

4. 5. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in vegetable oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Grill burgers on hot side of grill, covered, until well seared on first side, 2 to 4 minutes. Using wide metal spatula, flip burgers and continue grilling, about 3 minutes for medium-well or 4 minutes for well-done. Distribute equal portions of cheese (if using) on burgers about 2 minutes before they reach desired doneness, covering burgers with disposable aluminum pan to melt cheese. While burgers grill, toast buns on cooler side of grill, rotating buns as necessary to toast evenly. Serve burgers on toasted buns.

Recipe Testing

A Half-Ounce of Prevention Our quest for a juicy well-done burger ended when we hit upon a surprisingly effective addition--a bread-and-milk paste (or panade).

A panade prevented the burger on the left from becoming dense and dried out...

...like the one on the right.

Re: Shopping List OH I LOVE YOU COFFEE

are you just going to go get the meat for the bugers later?

On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 3:27 PM, John Beeler <johnbeeler@gmail.com> wrote:

Wed: Grilled Chicken Cobb Salad

Thu: Tomato, Basil, and Cheese Tart with Pancetta Crust

Fri: Succotash (make farmers cheese)

Mon: Grilled Chicken Paillard With Roasted Beet, Arugula, Cashew, and Farmers Cheese

GOOSE

4 chicken breasts, airline

(monday): 4 airline chicken breasts

lima/butter beans

1/3 cup minced country ham

1/4 lb pancetta /bacon

MARKET

3 red onion
Garlic cloves

8 plum tomatoes

3 ears of corn

4 large beets

4 large tomatoes

OMALIAS/TRADER JOES

Buttermilk

Sour cream

heavy cream

ricotta cheese

whole milk mozz.

Canned chipotle peppers

limes

4 avocados

8oz blue cheese

butter

orange juice

beer

greens

cashews

flour

Shopping List OH I LOVE YOU COFFEE

Wed: Grilled Chicken Cobb Salad

Thu: Tomato, Basil, and Cheese Tart with Pancetta Crust

Fri: Succotash (make farmers cheese)

Mon: Grilled Chicken Paillard With Roasted Beet, Arugula, Cashew, and Farmers Cheese

GOOSE

4 chicken breasts, airline

(monday): 4 airline chicken breasts

lima/butter beans

1/3 cup minced country ham

1/4 lb pancetta /bacon

MARKET

3 red onion
Garlic cloves

8 plum tomatoes

3 ears of corn

4 large beets

4 large tomatoes

OMALIAS/TRADER JOES

Buttermilk

Sour cream

heavy cream

ricotta cheese

whole milk mozz.

Canned chipotle peppers

limes

4 avocados

8oz blue cheese

butter

orange juice

beer

greens

cashews

flour

Succotash

Succotash

2 cups fresh, shelled butter or baby lima beans
3 large ears of corn, about 2 cups
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup minced country ham

1. Place butter beans in large saucepan. Cover with water; add about 3/4 teaspoon of kosher salt. Bring to boiling. Skim surface until clear. Reduce heat to medium;cook partially covered, 30-40 minutes, until tender. Strain beans in a sieve. Set aside.

2. Shuck corn. Remove silks. Scott suggests you use a clean terry kitchen cloth gently rubbing corn to do this. Using a sharp knife, cut corn kernels from cobs.

3. In a large skillet, heat unsalted butter over medium-high heat until melted and foaming. Add corn. Lightly season with salt and freshly ground pepper, stirring to coat corn in butter. Cook 1 to 2 minutes. Add beans. Adjust seasonings. Cook 1 minute more, taking care not to overcook the corn and beans.

4. Add heavy cream and country ham. Cook just until heated through and slightly reduced. Season to taste. 

Balsamic Beef Salad

Yield: makes 6 servings

Prep Time: 20 mins

Cooking Time: 1 hr 5 mins

Ingredients

For the dressing

• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 1 garlic clove, pressed
• 2 tbsp chopped basil
• 2 tsp chopped oregano or marjoram
• 1½ tsp brown sugar
• 1 tsp whole grain mustard

• salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 small red bell peppers
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 2 small red onions, cut into wedges
• 6oz (175g) cherry tomatoes
• 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 1lb 5oz (600g) beef tenderloin, trimmed and tied
• 6oz (165g) mesclun

Directions

1. To prepare the dressing, process the ingredients in a blender. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Preheat the broiler. Broil the peppers, turning from time to time, until blackened on all sides. Let cool until handleable. Remove the blackened skin, seeds, and ribs. Cut the peppers into thick strips.

3. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Place the onions on a rimmed baking sheet, toss with 1 tbsp of the oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes. Add the cherry tomatoes, drizzle with 1 tbsp more oil, and the vinegar. Roast for 10 minutes more, until the onions are tender. Let cool.

4. Increase the oven temperature to 425°F (220°C). Heat remaining 4 tbsp oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add the beef and cook, turning occasionally, about 10 minutes, until browned on all sides. Transfer to a roasting pan. Roast about 20 minutes until a meat thermometer reads 130°F (55°C) for medium-rare meat. Transfer to a carving board. Let cool, and thinly slice the beef.

5. Toss the mesclun with ¼ cup of dressing. Add the beef, red pepper, onions, and cherry tomatoes. Serve with extra dressing on the side.

Shopping List Eaaahhhhaa!

Tue: Eat out

Wed: Cheese Tortellini With A Fresh Tomato and Artichoke Slaw

Thu: Fresh Basil Rataouille

Fri: Grill Salmon with Fresh Blueberry Corn

Sat: Gazpacho

MARKET

3lbs ripe tomatos + 6
garlic cloves

2 med green bell pepper

2 med red bell pepper

1 orange bell pepper

2 kirby cucs

1 pint grape/cherry tomatoes, or 2 medium size tomatoes

1 medium-small globe eggplant

1 med green zucchini

1 med golden zucchini or crooked-neck squash

1 red onion

2 cups blueberries

corn

Country Bread

2 avocados

9oz cheese tortellini

cilantro

2 limes

1 jar (6oz) marinated artichoke hearts

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/grilled-salmon-with-fresh-blueberry-corn-salsa

Grilled Salmon with Fresh Blueberry Corn Salsa

I love fresh salsa with grilled fish and this is an unusual (and very colorful) salsa, made with blueberries and corn. I like to make it at the height of summer when both are in season.

Yield: Serves 8

Ingredients

• One 3-pound fresh salmon fillet
• 1 tablespoon cround cumin
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 4 ears sweet corn
• 4 medium tomatoes, diced
• 2 small firm but ripe avocados, peeled and diced
• 1 small green bell pepper, diced
• 1 small orange bell pepper, diced
• 1 small bunch cilantro, chopped
• Juice of 2 limes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
• 2 cups blueberries, preferably wild maine berries

Directions

1. Sprinkle the salmon with the cumin and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to cook.

2. Cook the corn in boiling water about 5 minutes, cool, then cut the kernels from the cob. Combine in a bowl with the tomatoes, avocados, bell peppers, cilantro, lime juice, oil, and vinegar. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

3. Build a hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill. Cook the salmon, turning once, until it is charred–almost blackened–on the outside and has reached the desired degree of doneness within. I like it still quite juicy, bordering on rare.

4. Add the blueberries to the salsa, stirring them in gently so as to avoid mushing them. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the salmon with the salsa spooned over.

Notes

In a pinch, you could use 1 cup of thawed frozen corn kernels instead of the fresh corn.

What do you think of this recipe? It has whole tomato slices, but they're cooked well.

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/tomato-basil-and-cheese-tart-with-pancetta-crust

Tomato, Basil, and Cheese Tart with Pancetta Crust

I developed this tart in the mid-eighties for a column in Gourmet called "Gastronomie Sans Argent," which loosely translated means "eating well on a budget." It was for an August issue, and the theme was tomatoes. Not a tough assignment; I can't think of a cheaper and more satisfying way to feel rich than to bite into a locally grown beefsteak tomato in season. I came up with an entree that recruited all of the tomato's usual partners in crime—bacon, mozzarella, and basil. The result was a big hit.

The only problem I had in developing this recipe was that the water in the tomatoes diluted the rest of the filling. Finally I figured out that if I presalted and drained the tomatoes my problem would be solved. I have presalted my tomatoes for almost every recipe ever since.

Here is my original recipe, slightly improved; I replaced the bacon in the crust with Italian pancetta, which is like unsmoked bacon. Of course, if you left out the pork product all together, you'd be left with a great vegetarian main dish. Serve this with a tossed green salad.

Yield: Serves 6

Ingredients

For the pastry:

• ¼ pound pancetta* or bacon
• l¼ cups all-purpose flour
• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and chilled
• 2 tablespoons chilled vegetable shortening

For the filling:

• 4 large tomatoes, sliced 1/3 inch thick
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt plus more for sprinkling the tomatoes
• 1 cup firmly packed fresh basil leaves plus 3 sprigs for garnish
• ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk ricotta cheese
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1 cup coarsely grated whole milk mozzarella cheese
• ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• About 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil for brushing the tomatoes

Directions

To prepare the pastry, finely chop the pancetta. Cook in a small skillet, stirring often, over medium-high heat until lightly colored, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain on paper towels until cooled. Combine the flour, salt, and pancetta in a large bowl. Add the butter and shortening. Blend with a pastry blender or your fingertips until the mixture resembles the texture of small peas. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water or enough to form a dough, tossing the mixture until the water is incorporated. Knead the dough lightly with the heel of your hand against a smooth surface for a few seconds to distribute the fat evenly and form it into a ball. Flatten slightly, dust with flour, and chill, wrapped in plastic wrap, for 1 hour.

Roll out into a disk '/8 inch thick on a lightly floured work surface. Transfer to a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, cut off excess dough from the edges, and prick the bottom lightly with a fork. Chill for 1 hour and preheat the oven to 375 °F. Line the shell with foil and fill with pie weights, dried beans, or rice. Bake in the lower third of the oven for 20 minutes. Carefully remove the weights and foil. Return to the oven and bake for 10 minutes more or until light golden. Cool in the pan on a wire rack.

To make the filling, turn down the oven to 350°F. Sprinkle the tomato slices on both sides with the additional salt and drain in a colander. Combine the basil leaves, ricotta, and eggs in a food processor and process until blended. Add the teaspoon of salt, the mozzarella, the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and pepper. Process until just combined.

Pat the tomato slices dry with paper towels. Line the bottom of the shell with the tomato end pieces and spoon on the cheese mixture. Arrange the remaining tomato slices in one layer, overlapping slightly, over the cheese mixture. Brush the top with olive oil and bake until the cheese mixture is set, 50 to 60 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature, garnished with sprigs of basil.

Notes

* Available at the deli counter of many supermarkets, at Italian markets, and at specialty food shops.

Fresh Basil Rataouille

Taking a little extra time with individual ingredients coaxes the best from each. The result is an exciting dish with lots of flavor variation in every bite. Careful cutting turns this home-style, rustic stew into a company-worthy mosaic. If you're a little less casual in your cuts, it will still taste great, but aim for pieces of approximately equal size for even cooking. Fresh basil at the end adds bright, fresh flavor.

Ratatouille makes a great accompaniment for roasted chicken, or as a vegetarian entrée served over a steaming bowl of polenta. Look for fire-roasted diced tomatoes for added complexity.

Yield: Makes 8 servings

Ingredients

• 1 medium-small globe eggplant (about ¾ pound)
• 1 medium green zucchini
• 1 medium golden zucchini or crooked-neck squash
• 1 medium red onion
• 1 medium red bell pepper
• 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more, if needed
• Kosher salt
• 1 heaping tablespoon minced garlic
• One 14-ounce can diced tomatoes
• ½ cup roughly chopped or torn fresh basil
• Freshly ground black pepper

Directions

1. Cut the eggplant, green and golden zucchini, and onion into ¼-inch dice, placing each in a separate bowl. (You can combine the two types of zucchini.) Cut the top and bottom off the red bell pepper, cut in half top to bottom, and remove the seeds. Lay each half skin side up on a cutting board and give it a good whack with the flat side of a cleaver or chef's knife to flatten it. Turn it over and, holding the knife almost parallel to the red pepper and work surface, carefully skim off the internal veins. Cut the pepper into ¼-inch dice.

2. Heat ¼ cup of the olive oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. I like to use a nonstick pan for this-it allows the vegetables to brown nicely without excessive oil or sticking. When the olive oil is hot, add the eggplant and sprinkle it with 1 teaspoon salt. Wait a minute or two before stirring to allow the eggplant to begin to take on some color. Alternate stirring and leaving it to sit a minute or so until the eggplant softens and is lightly browned all over. Remove the eggplant to a large serving bowl and set aside.

3. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the pan, then add the onions and garlic. When the onions are softened and light golden, add the red peppers. Sauté another minute to soften them, and then add the zucchini and 1 teaspoon salt. Add more olive oil as needed to keep the vegetables from sticking. When they are finished cooking, the vegetables should be tender but not at all mushy.

4. Return the eggplant to the pan and add the tomatoes with their juices. Stir and sauté to heat everything through and combine it well. (To make ahead, cool then refrigerate in a tightly covered container for up to 1 day. Reheat in a skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, or serve cool or at room temperature.)

5. Stir in the torn basil and season with pepper and additional salt to taste before transferring to the serving bowl.

Notes

Select a small to medium eggplant with firm, smooth, shiny skin. Unlike many other fruits (yes, eggplant is a fruit), eggplants should be light for their size. Purchase the eggplant no more than a day or two before cooking as it can become bitter with time. Some people believe that eggplants with a dash-shaped mark on the blossom end have fewer seeds–and therefore are less bitter–than those with a round mark; others disagree.

http://www.cookstr.com/recipes/cheese-tortellini-with-a-fresh-tomato-and-artichoke-slaw

Cheese Tortellini With A Fresh Tomato and Artichoke Slaw

One of my favorite ways to make a meal is to boil pasta, and while it is cooking, look in the pantry to see what I have on hand to put together a sauce. It might be roasted red peppers, it might be a jar of marinara sauce and a little olive paste. Or, it might be artichoke hearts with some fresh tomatoes, as in this recipe. This dish has summer freshness because the sauce is light and does not smother the tortellini, and for that reason I think it goes nicely with grilled fish, garnished with fresh basil, of course.

Yield: Serves 4

Prep Time: 3 Minutes

Cooking Time: 5 – 6 Minutes

Ingredients

• Salt (optional), for cooking the pasta
• 1 package (9 ounces) refrigerated fresh cheese tortellini
• 1 jar (6 ounces) marinated artichoke hearts with their liquid
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil, or 1 teaspoon store-bought pesto
• 1 pint (2 cups) grape or cherry tomatoes, or 2 cups chopped tomatoes (from 2 medium-size tomatoes)
• 1 teaspoon capers, drained
• ¼ cup pre-shredded Parmesan cheese

Directions

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add salt, is using, and stir in the tortellini. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook the tortellini, uncovered, until al dente, 5 to 6 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, place the artichoke hearts with their liquid, basil, and tomatoes in a food processor. Pulse 10 times, or until the mixture has a slaw-like consistency. Stir in the capers.

3. Drain the tortellini well in a colander, shaking it a few times to remove any water that might still cling to the pasta. Transfer the tortellini to a serving bowl or serving plates. Pour the slaw over the tortellini and sprinkle the Parmesan cheese on top. Serve at once.

Notes

For a beautiful yellow color, use yellow tomatoes in the slaw. Add a little chopped yellow bell pepper for bite, and substitute another herb for the basil, if you like.

The tomato and artichoke slaw goes well with cheese ravioli, too.

Corn Chowder

Fresh Corn Chowder

Makes about 2 quarts, serving 6.   Published September 1, 2000.

Be sure to use salt pork, not fatback, for the chowder. Streaks of lean meat distinguish salt pork from fatback; fatback is pure fat. We prefer Spanish onions for their sweet, mild flavor, but all-purpose yellow onions will work fine too.

Ingredients

10	ears corn (medium), husks and silks removed
3	ounces salt pork , trimmed of rind and cut into two 1-inch cubes
1	tablespoon unsalted butter
1	large onion , preferably Spanish, chopped fine
2	medium cloves garlic , minced (about 2 teaspoons)
3	tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
3	cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2	medium red potatoes (about 12 ounces), scrubbed and cut into 1/4-inch cubes (about 2 cups)
1	bay leaf
1	teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves (or 1/4 teaspoon dried)
2	cups whole milk
1	cup heavy cream
2	tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
1 1/2	teaspoons table salt
	Ground black pepper

Instructions

1. 1. Stand corn on end. Using chef's knife, cut kernels from 4 ears corn (you should have about 3 cups); transfer to medium bowl and set aside. Following illustrations below, grate kernels from remaining 6 ears on large holes of box grater, then firmly scrape any pulp remaining on cobs with back of knife (you should have 2 generous cups kernels and pulp). Transfer to separate bowl and set aside.

2. 2. Sauté salt pork in Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, turning with tongs and pressing down on pieces to render fat, until cubes are crisp and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low, stir in butter and onions, cover pot, and cook until softened, about 12 minutes. Remove salt pork and reserve. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually add stock. Add potatoes, bay leaf, thyme, milk, grated corn and pulp, and reserved salt pork; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add reserved corn kernels and heavy cream and return to simmer; simmer until corn kernels are tender yet still slightly crunchy, about 5 minutes longer. Discard bay leaf and salt pork. Stir in parsley, salt, and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

Technique

Milking the Corn

1. Start by grating the corn ears on a box grater.

2. Finish by scraping any remaining kernels off the cob with the back of a knife.

Re: Shopping List Grobby

On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 10:56 AM, John Beeler <johnbeeler@gmail.com> wrote:

Wed: Classic Hamburger
Thu: Gazpacho
Fri: Jody Adams's Salmon With Warm Cucumber Salad

MARKET
2 1/2lbs very ripe tomatos (preferably yellow)
1 ripe red tomato
3 medium persian cucumbers, or 3 long burpless/hothouse cucumber
3 heads of garlic
1 red pepper
1 yellow pepper
2 red onions
2 sweet/white onions
1/2lb shiitake mushrooms
2 cups snow peas

GOOSE

2oz Gruere/Emmenthal

Peppercorns

1.5lbs salmon

MARSH

Jalapeno

Flat leaf parsley

ginger

shallots

orange

snow peas

scallions

cilantro

cherry tomatoes

Dijon

Sourdough bread

Chips

MISC

Saran Wrap

Shopping List Grobby

Wed: Classic Hamburger
Thu: Gazpacho
Fri: Jody Adams's Salmon With Warm Cucumber Salad

MARKET
2 1/2lbs very ripe tomatos (preferably yellow)
1 ripe red tomato
3 medium persian cucumbers, or 3 long burpless/hothouse cucumber
3 heads of garlic
1 red pepper
1 yellow pepper
2 red onions
2 sweet/white onions
1/2lb shiitake mushrooms
2 cups snow peas

Shopping List Tweet Tweet

Tue: Basil Pesto w/Italian Sausage
Wed: Braised Beef Short Ribs with Potato Puree, Swiss Chard, and Horseradish Cream
Thu: Grilled Chicken Paillard With Roasted Beet, Arugula, Cashew, and Farmers Cheese
Fri:
Sat:

GOOSE
4 8oz airline chicken breasts
6 beef short ribs, 14 to 16 ounces each (ask for 3 bone centercut)
2 bay leaves

TJ
1c Cashews
pearl onions
port
1 bottle red wine
2 containers beef stock
1 1/2 lbs russet potatoes
1 1/2 lbs yukon gold potatoes
heavy cream
2 whole milks
creme fraiche
horseradish
pine nuts
garlic cloves
parmesan cheese
limes
1 lb pasta
8 oz Angel Hair Pasta
italian sausage
1/4 cup fresh goat cheese

MARKET
4 large beets
1/2 lb Arugula

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Potato Puree, Swiss Chard, and Horseradish Cream

Chef: Suzanne Goin

Cookbook: Sunday Suppers at Lucques

Publisher: Knopf

Information

• Course: main course
• Total time: a day or more
• Skill level: Moderate
• Cost: Moderate
• Yield: Serves 6
  

Notes

Every chef has a love-hate dish, the dish that made it into the first review, the one that customers call ahead for, the dish, therefore, the chef will never be able to take off the menu. Short ribs are mine. I used to be tortured by them, but I've come to accept them as a permanent member of the Lucques family.

The short-rib saga began one cool and rainy weekend when, inspired by the weather, I made them for a Sunday supper. The response was so overwhelming that I added them to our daily menu. When spring arrived and the city began to warm up, I replaced the short ribs with something lighter. That week, I went out to the dining room to say hello to a friend and was assaulted by diners at three different tables, who waved me over to find out (you guessed it) where the short ribs had gone. At first I was stubborn and refused to serve them in 90-degree weather. But I had a change of heart when I realized how much people loved them and how easily I could satisfy their craving. The short ribs went back on the menu and will probably remain there for all eternity.

Ingredients

• 6 beef short ribs, 14 to 16 ounces each (ask for 3 bone centercut)
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon thyme leaves, and 4 whole sprigs thyme
• 1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper
• 3 dozen small pearl onions
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup diced onion
• 1/3 cup diced carrot
• 1/3 cup diced celery
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1½ cups port
• 2½ cups hearty red wine
• 6 cups beef or veal stock
• 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
• 2 bunches Swiss chard, cleaned, center ribs removed
• Potato purée (recipe follows)
• Horseradish cream (recipe follows)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1½ pounds russet potatoes
• 1½ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes
• ¾ cup heavy cream
• ¾ cup whole milk
• 8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
• Kosher salt
• ¾ cup creme fraiche
• 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Season the short ribs with 1 tablespoon thyme and the cracked black pepper. Use your hands to coat the meat well. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Take the short ribs out of the refrigerator an hour before cooking, to come to room temperature. After 30 minutes, season them generously on all sides with salt.

When you take the ribs out of the refrigerator, preheat the oven to 425°F.

Toss the pearl onions with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon thyme, ¾ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet and roast them about 15 minutes, until tender. When they have cooled, slip off the skins with your fingers and set aside. Turn the oven down to 325°F.

When it's time to cook the short ribs, heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 3 minutes. Pour in 3 tablespoons olive oil, and wait a minute or two, until the pan is very hot and almost smoking. Place the short ribs in the pan, and sear until they are nicely browned on all three meaty sides. Depending on the size of your pan, you might have to sear the meat in batches. Do not crowd the meat or get lazy or rushed at this step; it will take at least 15 minutes. When the ribs are nicely browned, transfer them to a braising pan. They should lie flat, bones standing up, in one layer.

Turn the heat down to medium, and add the onion, carrot, celery, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves. Stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up all the crusty bits in the pan. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, until the vegetables just begin to caramelize. Add the balsamic vinegar, port, and red wine. Turn the heat up to high, and reduce the liquid by half.

Add the stock and bring to a boil. Pour the liquid over the short ribs, scraping any vegetables that have fallen on the ribs back into the liquid. The stock mixture should almost cover the ribs. Tuck the parsley sprigs in and around the meat. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and a tight-fitting lid if you have one. Braise in the oven for about 3 hours.

To check the meat for doneness, remove the lid and foil, being careful of the escaping steam, and pierce a short rib with a paring knife. When the meat is done, it will yield easily to a knife. Taste a piece if you are not sure.

Let the ribs rest 10 minutes in their juices, and then transfer them to a baking sheet.

Turn the oven up to 400°F.

Place the short ribs in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, to brown.

Strain the broth into a saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables with a ladle to extract all the juices. Skim the fat from the sauce and, if the broth seems thin, reduce it over medium-high heat to thicken slightly. Taste for seasoning.

Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Tear the Swiss chard into large pieces. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil to the pan, and stir in the cooked pearl onions. Add half the Swiss chard, and cook a minute or two, stirring the greens in the oil to help them wilt. Add a splash of water and the second half of the greens. Season with a heaping a teaspoon salt and a pinch of ground black pepper. Cook for a few more minutes, stirring frequently, until the greens are tender.

Place the Swiss chard on a large warm platter, and arrange the short ribs on top. Spoon lots of braising juices over the ribs. Serve the hot potato purée and horseradish cream on the side.

Potato Puree:

Place the potatoes, whole and unpeeled, in a large sauce pot. Add 2 tablespoons salt and fill the pot with cold water. Bring the potatoes to a boil over high heat, turn down the heat to low, and simmer about 45 minutes, until tender. One type of potato may be done before the other, so check doneness and remove one variety first, if necessary.

When the potatoes are cooked through, strain them, and set them aside to cool for 10 minutes or so. Heat the cream and milk together in a small saucepan, then turn off the heat. When the potatoes have cooled, peel them and pass them through a food mill or potato ricer. Put the riced potatoes in a heavy-bottomed pan. Heat them over medium heat a few minutes, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon, to dry them out a little. Add the butter slowly, stirring constantly. Season with 2½ teaspoons salt.

When all the butter has been incorporated, slowly stir in the warm cream mixture until you have a smooth purée. Taste for seasoning. Pass the purée through a fine-mesh tamis twice if you like.

Horseradish Cream:

Combine the crème fraîche and horseradish in a small bowl. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and pepper. Taste for balance and seasoning.